In the early morning, low-lying fog rolls into the Santa Rita Hills, obscuring the view of the vineyards and farms dotting the countryside. Quails, rabbits, and squirrels scurry to safety as the occasional car zips by on Santa Rosa Road, which cuts through the area, connecting Lompoc to Buellton.
Almost 8 miles down the road, west of Highway 101, Kathy Joseph grows wine grapes on a roughly 130-acre plot of land. Joseph has harvested grapes here for the last 25 years to produce wine for her own brand, Fiddlehead Cellars, and to sell to winemakers throughout Santa Barbara County and other parts of the state.
The majority of her vineyard is dedicated to pinot noir, while she also grows grapes for chardonnay. Both varieties thrive here and benefit from the cool, coastal fog that rolls in and lingers every morning.
“This is why pinot noir loves it here. It demands a cool climate,” she said.
But the fog has a downside. After rolling in, it leaves a layer of moisture on the grapes, which can spur mildew growth if it’s not addressed. Joseph tries to harness the wind that sweeps through the hills to dry off the grapes, but it isn’t enough. To prevent mildew from ruining her crop, workers at the vineyard also spray the grapes with a mildewcide. For decades, she said, this process wasn’t an issue. But that changed earlier this year when a cannabis farm moved in just northeast of her property.
Cannabis undergoes stringent state-mandated testing to ensure no chemicals have touched the plants. If a substance is found, the plant is destroyed. Earlier this year, the owner of the cannabis farm near Joseph’s vineyard filed a complaint with Santa Barbara County against her vineyard, alleging the mildewcide drifted over and landed on some of the plants, she said. The county confirmed that it’s investigating a complaint, but officials wouldn’t say who is involved.
